WT317 – Horse Butt 2: Electric Boogaloo

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Today’s show is sponsored by Brusso and Harrys. If you want super high quality hinges and a silky smooth face then visit Brusso.com for their summer sale on side rail hinges, quadrant hinges, and templates and save 50% off between Aug 8 and 16th. Or visit Harrys.com and using the code “WoodTalk” save $5 off your first order of high quality razors.

On today’s show, we’re talking about sharpening stone contamination, dealing with hardware on our projects.

What’s On the Bench

  • Marc had thyroid surgery and is recovering so wish him well.
  • Matt is working on his farm house table
  • Shannon is really enjoying his well insulated shop in the inhumane summer heat

What’s New

Kickback

  • Tommaso used the table saw and dado blade method to create a shouldered round tenon with great results.
  • Chad found Walnut at his local Home Depot

Email

  • Jason wants to know when we install hardware and how we deal with finish and our hardware.
  • Ben and Mark both had questions about the durability of an edge and whether honing on stones finer than 8000 grit is necessary as well as cross contamination issues with combination stones.

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15 Responses to “WT317 – Horse Butt 2: Electric Boogaloo”

  1. Best wishes Marc, I heard about the surgery and hope all went well and your back on your feet soon. Great show and great website, your methods of educating us woodworkers is truly invaluable. Keep up the great work and get well soon. Best wishes Brock Kragenbrink

    • Thanks Brock. Fortunately the surgery wasn’t bad at all but the latent effects on my voice are a little annoying. Thankfully the pain is minimal. Should be singing trios with my co-hosts soon enough. 🙂

  2. Wow…first and last time I give kickback. Came out of it not knowing what an 1″ is or a board foot. Both are units of measure and don’t change based on condition. They spill milk when filling containers yet you still get a gallon. Loss is reflected in the price not changing units of measure based on guessing what material it took to make a finished board. Maybe finished lumber isn’t typically sold in BF but a BF is a BF rough or S4S. Only someone in marketing would try to find a way to spin a unit of measure…

    Sorry guys, this show even outside of my kickback came off as pompous and condescending. Majority of the show was spent talking down to others as they don’t know what a BF is, can’t read a tape measure, how to use breadboards or ebony plugs… Would be equivalent to me talking down to you over violating terms with your affiliate links because I know more since that’s what I do for a living.

    • I guess I’ll take the blame for this since I know Matt to be a very likable and humble person. However I’m going to get “pompous” here and take exception to this comment Chad. First I would hope that if you show up on a podcast in your area of expertise that you would convey helpful, useful, and (gasp) correct information. If I was concerned about whether my use of affiliate links would run afoul of FCC regulations or if I wanted to know which impression to use to net me the best click through and ROI then I would hope the “experts” on the affiliate marketing podcast would tell it like it is.

      So if it is pompous to express and opinion and use your comment as an opportunity to teach about how the lumber industry works (an area most woodworkers are confused about) then I’m not ashamed of my pomposity (oops, that’s kind of a pompous work…dammit that comment was pompous!)

      So let me rephrase my point because I admit it could have been stated better. BF and LF are both units of measure but one is volume and the other lineal and switch from volume to linear denotes a transformation in the product, much like the milk that was poured into that gallon jug has been transformed from its “rough” state coming out of the cow. By the time it is being poured it is a different product, eg: 2%, skim, etc. As it is with lumber. BF is a unit of measure used for rough sawn lumber because there is too much variability in width and thickness from one board to another. When we mill boards to a uniform thickness and width, those dimensions now become part of the product descriptor and less units of meausure (2% and skim milk). Now the unit of measure, or the variable in the specific board you are looking at, is length. That is a lineal number so linear feet is used. You point about loss reflecting in the price is spot on and that is the part that I glossed over. But you have to recognize that because the mill had to start with a thicker 5/4 board their cost of the raw material has gone up over using a 4/4 board. Moreover the labor and machine wear and tear is factored into the price to get to that machined (S4S) product. This is the same as expecting that your store bought 2% milk will have a different cost than the stuff that came out of the cow…nor are those two things the same product. Just as rough boards are not the same product as an S4S board.

      So I sincerely apologize that you felt we (I) was talking down to you, but I am pretty passionate about exposing the dark underbelly of the lumber trade since the industry has done everything it can for hundreds of years to keep their cards close to the vest thus creating the animosity we see today between user and supplier.

      I have listened very closely to this episode and I don’t hear it as us being pompous about anything but rather expressing our opinions, and excitedly talking about woodworking. But I guess that makes me pompous for not seeing it.

      Okay that last sentence was pompous..so is this one.

      • I got what you meant Shannon and it was a bit more informative than the way Marc explained it or calls out dimensions. 🙂 come on Marc, thickness goes first. Plus, we are all friends here, we should be able to take a ribbing from each other. If not, take it out back, settle up, then kiss and make up.

  3. Man, all the awkward laughter during the episode when nothing funny was actually happening. Felt like an episode of Big Bang Theory.

  4. Hopefully this may be helpful to Matt on finishing his outdoor table.

    I’m in the middle of a bathroom remodel and to avoid spending $1,000 on granite, I’m making the counter-top (about 6′ x 2′) out of ambrosia maple (on a Sapele cabinet). Like Matt, I’m using Marc’s formula of two coats of CPES followed by Epifanes. The first couple coats of Epifanes did indeed have that super glossy look but the stuff takes so long to dry that there was way too much dust baked in by the time it was ready to re-coat (after being very disappointed with the first coat I sanded it down smooth then suspended the panel upside down to brush on the next coat).

    Then I had the thought to try the same method I use for Arm-R-Seal… wipe the varnish on then immediately wipe most of it off. This does indeed allow the finish to dry faster with less embedded dust but as a bonus it also dries with something much closer to a semi-gloss look.

    For what it’s worth…

    • Interesting. I’ll have to experiment with wiping it on. I am worried about the dry time and dust when applying the finish since I’m likely going to have to finish it outside. Thanks!

  5. One thing I have always heard about strops is that they do not sharpen, like a butcher steel they true the edge when it gets bent over in use. When it gets metal removed to a truely blunt edge you need to use an abrasive then. So a pasted strop will both true the edge and do some degree of sharpening.

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