WT316 – My FroMona

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Today’s show is sponsored by QALO. These rings are incredibly comfortable and start at just $15.99. Head to qalo.com, and use the discount code “WoodTalk” for 15% off your order.

On today’s show, we’re talking about refinishing a table top, fixing a laundry rack, determining if an old table is veneered, cambering jointer plane blades, and wood movement.

What’s On the Bench

  • Marc is contemplating a move and the implications for his tools and shop
  • Matt made a hexagonal box, a farm table, and now has some torrefied wood
  • Shannon launches his new web site and the Apprenticeship product, then had a successful glue up

What’s New

Kickback

  • Dan like Japanese saws because they are cheaper and often “disposable”

Voicemail

  • Andreas has a question about refinishing an old table top
  • OCD Woodworker is trying to fix an old laundry drying rack
  • Jake has a question about wood movement for small boxes

Email

  • Richard is restoring an old round table top and is trying to figure out if it is veneered or solid wood before he cuts into the surface
  • Scott wants to know if we camber the blade in our jointer planes and if so how much.

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7 Responses to “WT316 – My FroMona”

  1. I was just wondering about stripping a tacky finish… and I don’t have any first hand experience, but you mentioned it would prolly get stuck in the throat of a plane. I wondered if it would be possible to powder the surface first. You wouldn’t want to use an abrasive powder that could dull your plane, but what about plain old flour? Just a thought.

    • Really not sure. But that’s something that would only work for the surface material. As soon as the blade cuts into the goop, it exposes more gummy finish that would go up into the throat. My guess is you’d have the exact same issues. Also, the powder won’t make the finish any firmer, which is also part of the problem.

  2. First I would like to say that I really look forward to your show, because there is not much excitement here in Northern Colorado.

    Second, Congratulations to Marc for deciding to move to Gods country.

    Third, You guys are great and VERY entertaining.

  3. Marc – congrats on the potential move. I have relocated a few times with my family and, while stressful, there is something really special about discovering a new city with your kids.

    P.S. I don’t know how big the humidity swings are in Denver but I am sure it is more than AZ. I know Shannon can relate, but here in chicago my indoor RH is about 20% in the winter and 60%+ in the summer (and that is with the HVAC running 24/7 365 days a year). Even following all wood movement rules, stuff moves like crazy. You will have fun watching your furniture move with the seasons :). Whoever says “with modern HVAC, wood movement is not the problem it used to be” is smoking some of that fine CO stuff.

  4. Maybe I missed something but another option for the laundry rack dowel would be to use a lathe. Just find centre on the dowel stock, mount it with either a chuck or a spur bit and a live center and turn the ends down to the desired diameter. Could even make your own dowel from scratch! Length becomes a limiting factor depending on the capacity of your (or your friend’s) lathe.

  5. In response to the conversation about stripping, I have a favorite method. I place my item in a large tray. It may be something as simple as a cut off cardboard box. Once I have the chemical stripper on the item I use handfuls of cedar shaving pet bedding to scrub the old finish off. It’s abrasive enough to scrub away the softened finish, not abrasive enough to damage the underlying wood, and absorbent enough to soak up most of the stripper/old finish. The tray catches all the shavings. I simply let the shavings dry, and toss the whole batch out. A bale of pet bedding is cheap, and the resulting mess is mostly dry and easily cleanable. If the project is large, the dried shavings can often be reused on a second area.

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