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On today’s show, we’re focusing 100% on your questions!
– Robert is trying to develop a dry fir and sub-assembly strategy.
– Dusty wonders why so many people jump through hoops to hide end grain.
– Keith is thinking about giving miters a try using hand tools only.
– Walter is pondering putting glue on one surface or two.
– Adam is looking for a good dust collection strategy for his router.
– Peter wants to know the pros and cons of wood plans vs metal planes.
– Glen is making a Roubo workbench and is concerned about his glue’s open time.
– Chris wants to make the ray flecks pop on his quartersawn white oak. Marc recommends this article by Jeff Jewitt.
– Shaun is trying to decide where to start his hand saw cuts.
– Craig has a question about parallel clamps.
– Ben wants to know if he should use an oil before shellac.
– Timber Doc is pondering the use of “twin tenons.”
– Alexandre has a question about design.
– Tom wants an odor-free finish for his chest of drawers and is confused by common recommendations.
– Jeff is contemplating the various offerings in the world of carbide turning tools.
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3 replies on “WT200 – Celebrating YOU!”
hi guys. Enjoy your show! Mark I purchased your finishing DVD and followed your recommendations with Fantastic results so Thank you!
Looking to service my saw stop soon. Do you guys have recommendations for the surface of the saw as well as any other yearly or bi-yearly interior servicing? Thank you!
Greg Lilley
Congrats on the 200 episodes, guys, and thanks for putting on this great show and answering our questions. Here’s to 200 more!
Regarding white oak ray flecks: for quarter sawn red oak: Hendrik Varju, per his finishing DVDs, prefers the effect on ray fleck from asphaltum found in Watco Danish oils, prefers it over other staining alternatives. Guys, correct me if I’m wrong, but mission furniture I’ve read was in that era stained with asphaltum so it isn’t a stretch for me to have given credence to Hendrik’s alternative to Jeff Jewitt’s seemly more complex finishing schedule? Currently I have a small quarter sawn white oak box that I ‘stained’ with Watco Danish oil, but since I chose ‘natural’ over darker shades of Watco Danish oil, I don’t have as pronounced an effect as I would expect from Watco Danish oil had I wanted a darker mission style result. Since I can’t argue from experience for Hendrik’s method, it would be easy enough for Chris to test on scrap, where Jeff’s method is more involved. Also, I’ve put a shellac top coat over the one coat of Danish oil ‘stain’ without a problem, but would oil based varnishes also work well?